Author: Paola Ziosi (Ambrosialab)
Ambrosialab is dedicated to the innovative development and formulation of new ingredients for cosmetics and medical devices. Our focus is particularly on valorizing new ingredients deriving from green-chemistry and/or biotechnology, employing cutting-edge formulation techniques. We place a special emphasis on creating sunscreens with a safe-by-design approach, crafting unique strategies to ensure product safety. Through strategic partnerships with other companies and research institutions, we strive to forge new pathways and foster innovation in the use of biobased raw materials. These collaborative efforts are crucial for sharing knowledge and expertise, thereby enhancing the development and use of sustainable materials. With a full range of instruments and a team of skilled professionals, Ambrosialab is adept at assessing the effectiveness of cosmetic ingredients and finished products, both in vitro and through in vivo tests with volunteers.
Where do you see current challenges that require a more efficient open innovation process?
The recent global crisis has highlighted the critical issue of raw material supply. The discontinuation of the supplies, rising costs of logistics due to the instability of governments in several countries which are the principal suppliers of raw materials, have led to a growing awareness of the need for a circular economy and an approach that reduces the cost of sourcing raw materials by utilising by-products from agriculture and food industry. One of the current challenges in cosmetic sector is certainly the development of safer, more effective and greener ingredients obtained through sustainable synthesis or biotechnological approaches that could replace fossil based additives, in order to reduce harmful emissions, stop the depletion of non-renewable raw materials and integrate anthropogenic production processes into natural material cycles.
What is the AmbrosiaLab use case about?
In our use case, we’re pioneering the transformation of cellulose extracted from lignocellulosic biomasses into advanced materials, namely nanocellulose and nanocapsules. This is part of our effort to develop sustainable and renewable alternatives to traditional, fossil-based cosmetic ingredients. Our work specifically focuses on leveraging these nanomaterials to enhance cosmetic products, offering improved hydration, water retention, and sun protection. We’ve successfully formulated cosmetic emulsions incorporating nanocellulose and nanocapsules, marking a significant step towards replacing ingredients derived from fossil resources. Furthermore, we’ve explored innovative applications beyond cosmetics, including the incorporation of functionalized nanocapsules into food products, like tomato sauce, showcasing the versatility and potential of our research.
Which services of Bionanopolys are relevant for your use case and why?
The most pertinent service offered by Bionanopolys for our user case is the technical service of pilot plant 2 designed to produce biobased additives such as nanofibers and nanocrystals (CNF and CNC). In cosmetic field there is an increasing demand for renewable alternatives to replace fossil-based materials. The shift aims to reduce the environmental impact and create new formulation possibilities. A valid candidate can be represented by cellulose derived from sustainable sources, which have properties that ensure high-volume applications and a good performance.
At ITENE facility, nano-based materials have been prepared in the form of nanodispersions: the production in liquid state through an emulsifier has considerably reduced the mixing time, brought processing temperatures down and reduced the dust presence. These factors lead to substantial savings in energy consumption. Among the functionalities of nanocelluloses that AmbrosiaLab has investigated (even though at a preliminary stage), the most interesting seems to be their SPF booster properties in sunscreen emulsions. These results could have remarkable consequences, as it means that these biopolymers could be used instead of other fossil-based boosters with the aim to reduce the amount of organic and inorganic UV filters in sunscreen formulations. Nanocelluloses can therefore represent a sustainable solution in UV protection, both being a renewable product and contributing to lower the impact of UV filters on marine ecosystem.
What are the benefits of the Bionanopolys OITB from your perspective?
BioNanoPolys OITB allows us to join a network of partners with skills complementary to ours and to expand our knowledge and expertise. It enables us to find new solutions for a more sustainable development and increase our visibility in the cosmetics industry.
Do you - as a user of the OITB - have any recommendations for other (future) OITB users?
As participants in the OITB initiative, whose core mission revolves around the sharing of knowledge, we strongly encourage future users to view the exchange of information not as a potential threat to their proprietary know-how, but rather as an opportunity for growth and innovation. Embracing the collaborative spirit of the network can significantly enhance individual capabilities and lead to outcomes that are far more substantial and impactful than what one could achieve in isolation. We think believe that adopting this perspective will yield richer, more valuable results for all involved, as the collective expertise and insights of the entire network can drive advancements hat surpass the sum of their parts.
Picture credits: Pixabay